Crawdaddys Speakers- Foams & Recone Kits!

Welcome!   Instructions for Use of Refoam Kits

First of all, Refoaming of speakers, with a little patience, is a very easy task for most to complete!   Save BIG by doing it yourself!  Allows you to rejuvenate the speaker to its original sound.  Simply replacing a woofer can result in serious degradation of sound quality.  So give it a try!

 ***** See Links at left to available ReFoam and Cone Kits *****

 

 

          Speaker after Refoaming            Speaker Before Refoaming

Step 1   REMOVE WOOFER FROM CABINET

Lay speaker cabinet on its back and unscrew woofer.   Be careful not to slip and damage the cone before you even get started!  Identify the wire polarity - mark at least one of the wires in a logical way and disconnect the terminals. If the wires are soldered, carefully desolder the terminal connection and be careful to not apply to much heat and possibly damage the terminal.   Repeat for second speaker.  

 

Step 2    REMOVE GASKET

If the speaker has a gasket, remove it  by inserting a very sharp utility knife in between the bottom of the gasket and the old surround.   It is OK if you take some of the surround with it, just remove excess once gasket is free.  Try to get the gasket off in one piece – but if it breaks apart don’t worry, you can easily glue it back up with glue. Note the location of the indentations, as they are cut out for the mounting screws.  Use extreme caution!   Cut away from yourself, and be careful not to slip.

Step 3    REMOVE OLD SURROUND

I usually pull off as much as I can by hand.  Scrape remaining old foam off the frame with the utility knife. Clean it back to the paint or the shiny metal so the surface becomes smooth.  Do the final cleaning with a rag and isopropyl alcohol or nail polish remover.  Carbeurator cleaner is Great for hard to remove glue and foam.  Again, Be very careful to NOT get it on the cone, but only on the basket frame.  If you don’t have any or just don’t want to use it, then just clean by scraping so there are no obvious lumps of glue and foam left on the frame. Small traces of glue are OK. You want the frame to be relatively smooth, though.  Remove as much glue and foam from the speaker cone as you can - but be gentle!  I hold the cone gently in place with one hand while removing the foam left at the edge of the cone.  Many times you can rub off the foam left on the cone.  A sharp knife can be used to get the last of the old material on the cone, but be very careful to not damage the cone.

Step 4    REMOVE DUST CAP (IF NEEDED!  Please read below before removing!)

Most of the times this is not needed! Perform thisTest to see if this step is necessary: lay the woofer on its back (on the flat part of the magnet). Move the woofer membrane downwards in a straight line using several fingers to apply EQUAL pressure around the cone.  If you do feel resistance (other than normal with a woofer like this) or you hear a scraping sound - YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE DUST CAP.   If not (i.e. you can push the woofer without feeling a 'scraping' resistance or hearing a sound) the 'spider' is still OK and you don't need to center again. Leave the dust caps in place.  Of course, you can remove them if you simply want to change them as well.  For example, you have purchased a logo dust cap.  Removal, if necessary, is simple.  Simply cut along the edge trying to cut at as close to the same angle of the cone as possible.  Be very careful not to cut either the voice coil wires leading to the terminals, or the cone.

Step 5    CONE ALIGNMENT

Only needed when the dust cap has been removed! Place my unique shim stock to align cone. Place shims evenly around, between the round steel pole piece and the voice coil - it should slip in easily.   Ensure there is enough sticking out to get them out of the hole easily!!

You should feel more resistance if you push down the woofer now and it should fit snugly. Now try to put some more down there – it will either go in with increased resistance or it will not go in at all.   Don't force it.  If you can’t get it in don’t worry – there's enough. The goal of the pieces it to keep the cone held centered with  the voice coil and the magnet.

Step 6   Attach New Foam Surround

 Apply a line of glue to the edge of the cone. If the old surround was mounted on the back of the cone then put the glue on the back of the cone. Spread it flat with the cotton swabs or brush supplied with the kit. Now apply a line of glue to the inside edge of the foam surround and spread it flat.  I like to place glue on the basket as well at this point and glue both sides of the foam at the same time.  Some people let the glue set for 10 to 20 minutes and let it get "tacky."  I like to place the foams while the glue is fresh and it gives me the ability to somewhat "slide" and glide the foam into perfect position.  Regardless of method, lightly place the foam surround on the top or bottom of the cone or  underneath if it was mounted that way originally,
making sure the surround is centered relative to the cone. Press the foam edge onto the cone all the way around. Press out any ripples or bumps. Let sit a few minutes and repeat.  This may take some time: the glue will still be drying as you press the surfaces together.  Eventually the surfaces will adhere firmly and you can let dry overnight.  If you chose to do each side separately you can now place a nice thick line of glue on the frame underneath the surround. Gently move the cone up or down relative to the frame so the surround sits flat on the frame: the shims you put in  will keep the cone in place. Gently
push the surround down on the frame so the glue you put there spreads onto the surround. If you chose to glue separately and want it to get tacky, lift the cone up evenly so there is a gap of at least ¼” or 10 mm between the frame and the cone. Leave it for 10 minutes or so to get tacky. Now Push the cone and surround down evenly onto the basket and  press the surround down on to the frame all the way around.  Again, repeat several times until foam adheres on it's own.  Let dry overnight.

Here is link to a video which shows how easy it really is! 

 Speaker Repair Video- As found on the speakerworks web site

Step 7  Test speaker and glue dust cap in place

Now reconnect your speaker wires temporarily back to speaker cabinet.  Apply generous amounts of your favorite music and hopefully you will hear a much improved sounding woofer.  If you hear scraping or pops you unfortunately will have to repeat the whole process.  If you worked carefully it is very unlikely that you will encounter any problems.  If all sounds good, apply gule to the edge of the dustcap, center the dustcap and get as close as you can and "drop" the dustcap into place.  Make slight adjustments while glue is still wet to get the dustcap perfectly centered.  You can screw the woofer back into place while the dustcap is drying.

 ENJOY your freshly renovated speakers!

 

Contact me if you have any problems at crawdadspeakers@gmail.com

See my available ReFoam and Cone Kits at the links on the left